Cheap 2" Body Lift -

For the Strong at Heart & Weak of Wallet


I've said it before, and I'll say it again: SandLizrd appreciates the hell out of his readers.

And the baja way holds much room for style, grace and simple good fabrication. Looked at from this way, no one knows it all!

So when I exchange email with a reader who knows his stuff, it's not uncommon for me to request a write-up from said individuals. Sometimes we luck out - like this.

The Whites recently did the following 2" body lift, and it sounds so good I can't resist posting it for the brave. Thanks to the fellows for the time & trouble it took to enlighten the rest of us!


2" CHEAP BODY LIFT
by John, Chris and Matt White

The beauty of the body lift is it moves the fenders upwards, so you have the same fender coverage over the tires while having more room for wheels.

Sure, it raises the center of gravity a bit, but the mass of the weight is in the pan, motor, transmission and driver's seat, anyway. What's a couple of inches on a few pounds of roof material when compared with this?

Tools needed

LET's GO!

Pull the rear seat and gas tank. Remove the positive battery terminal. Make sure you have enough play at the regulator for the lift plus a couple of inches. - If not - disconnect. Pull apart the brake lines from the remote reservoir-catch the fluid in a cup and properly dispose.

Remove the four bolts under the rear seat - the two or four bolts under the forward portion of the gas tank - disconnect the steering column at the joint before the steering box and remove the two bolts in the outside rear wheel wells near the shocks.

UNDERNEATH

Remove the bolts holding on the body. - they start about 2" from the rear wheel well and end with two larger bolts at the front wheel well.

Lift the body. - You may have to bounce or jiggle it the open the seal.

LEFT AND RIGHT SIDES

Using a straight edge - see how for your can go before cutiing a piece - but hit all of the bolt holes. Cut the pieces we had 3 pieces - weld the sides and weld and grind the top and bottoms flat. When doing mine I let the front spacer run to the front beams so I could later tie them to the beams with aftermarket clamps. Mark and drill the holes and bolt them in. We did one side first and then the other. Now comes the middle. The kits have wonderful pieces that just fit right in. We just cut pieces to fit the straight sections at the firewall and trunk - drilled and bolted the firewall sections - two bolts each, and welded the front sections to the body - tack-welded the lower front sections to the pan. This leaves you with open sections at the firewall and below the trunk. Put tape the sides of the holes to hold the spray foam. Load the holes with spray foam. When it hardens (don't use that latex stuff its junk) you can cut away the excess. At the trunk - you can seal the outside ( the tops and bottoms should havebeen sealed with caulking) with that sticky back aluminum muffler tape - or aluminum duct tape - or whatever.

You will need to make some 2" spacers from 1/2" tubing - 4-2" for the front under the gas tank and 2- 2-1/2 for the shocks.

You willl also need to lengthen the two brake reservior lines - lengthen the metal pieces 2" each.

Steering column - we just cut the hole that the steering column passed through in the trunk wall and rewelded it. We also lowered the steering wheel two inches. No mods were necessary to the column. The rag joint shaft that fit into the steering box was lengthened.

Matt is not tall so we put in new seats and fabricated new seat mounts 2" higher for him. - those seat mounts were a real bear.

We then primered them and painted the inside and undercoated the outside. Plan an easy weekend of quality time with the kids for this project. The second one should take half a day.


Makes sense? Sounds like fun?
So What's Next?